CANTINE BONACCHI 2004 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO DOC

Introduction

As you might have surmised from the name of this site, I have an interest in Italian wines. I selected the Montepulciano D’Abruzzo to be the first Italian wine to be discussed for a particular reason. Just as I have a connection with the California Central Coast, I have a connection (sort of) with the Abruzzo region. As I was growing up, my Italian relatives (and only my father before me was born in the United States) were very proud to be “Abruzzese.” Thus, I thought that my ancestors were from Abruzzo. In a way, they were. However, in 1963, the Abruzzi region was split into Abruzzo and Molise. The hometown of all my relatives was Santa Maria del Molise. I will try to find a wine from Molise to discuss at a later date.

I first came across a Montepulciano D’Abruzzo about 15 years ago when I was trying to come up with a Christmas present for my grandfather. I thought he might enjoy a wine from his home region so after some searching I found the Montepulciano as well as a Trebbiano D’Abruzzo. He did enjoy both as did I. I presented him with bottles of these for several years and have continued to buy it for myself after his death. The Trebbiano is much harder to find, but I will discuss it at a later date (if I can find some!).

Wine Impressions

This wine has a deep red, purplish color. It is dry, but with a slight fruity flavor. I have had other brands of this wine with a bit sweeter, fruitier taste than this one. I think I paid $7.99 for a 750 milliter bottle.

The bottle is about average. I found it appealing because it had the name “Montepulciano D’Abruzzo” in big bold letters at the top of the label. It had a natural cork.

It also had the DOC designation. The Italians have been a leader in designating zones for particular wines, going back to the ancient Romans. Since the mid-1960’s they have applied designations to areas for growing grapes for wines of significance. There are more than 200 DOC regions. In addition, there are nine regions with the DOCG designation. The “G” means guaranteed authenticity (See http://www.made-in-italy.com/winefood/wine/labels.htm). The DOCG wines are the top of the pyramid.

In 1992, the laws changed. Previously, only 12-15 percent of Italy’s wine production had a DOC or DOCG designation and the rest were labeled as table wines. Now, there is a third designation of “IGT,” which allows designation of color, grape variety and typology from large areas (See http://www.made-in-italy.com/winefood/wine/labels.htm). There are also European Union designations and other issues which I hope to discuss in more detail as time goes on.

According to the company web site, the wine is produced by grapes from the hilly areas of the provinces of Chieti, Aquila, Pescara, and Teramo (the four provinces of the Abruzzi region). At least 85% of the grapes must be Montepulciano, and up to 15% may be other black grape varieties. The company recommends a serving temperature of 16-18 degrees Celsius (about 61 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit). It recommends serving the wine with hard cheeses and red meat.

The Company: Cantine Bonacchi SpA

This wine was produced by Cantine Bonacchi SpA of Quarrata, Italy. The company’s web site does not offer an abundance of information. However, I was able to determine that the company has a new building with modern winemaking equipment in the center of its estate . The company has 40 hectares of vineyards in Chianti Monalbano and another 20 in the Chianti Classico Gallo Nero area, in Siena. In 2002, the company bought another vineyard in Siena. Since the grapes for the Montepulciano D’Abruzzo are from the various provinces of Abruzzi, I assume they must purchase those grapes from other vineyards.

The Chianti Montalcino DOCG and the “Badesco,” a Tuscan IGT wine aged in small oak barrels are the two best known wines of this company. Most of the company’s wines appear to be bottled under the Bonacchi name. However, the web site indicates several wines under the names Vini Casalino and Vini Chiappini.

The Region: Abruzzo, Italy

I have already mentioned a little about my connection to Abruzzo. I have traveled to Italy three times. While I have been to Molise twice, I have never been to Abruzzo.

Abruzzo is a sparsely-populated region on the Adriatic side of Italy. It is roughly mid-way up the “boot” on about the same latitude as Rome.. It extends westward to the Apennines. According to www.knowital.com, it is one of the most beautiful and unspoiled regions of Italy. This is due largely to an exodus of population to the cities and to America. The Gran Sasso mountain is the highest in the Apennine range and on a clear day you can see both the Adriatic and Mediterranean coasts from its peak.

In the web site’s description of Abruzzo, it mentions the predominance of sheep farming and remote settlements with “bleak little structures, made of stone, and seemingly huddled together against the wind.” That description reminded me of a story my grandfather told me. When he was a youth (a teenager, I think), he was working in the fields with his father. The fields were located a good distance from the village. He thought that they would be vulnerable if a storm arose suddenly as there was no shelter anywhere near them. His father agreed and they built a small shelter of stone. Sure enough, one day a huge storm arose. From his description it sounded as if it may have caused a mudslide. They were safe inside their shelter, but the storm (and mudslide) did great damage and even caused at least one death.

The major city in Abruzzo is Pescara. It has a population of about 150,000 and is located on the Adriatic coast. It has miles of beautiful beaches. The city of L’Aquila was founded by German Emperor Frederick II in 1242 by bringing together 99 villages. The City Hall bell still rings its bells 99 times every night in honor of the 99 villages. It is at the foot of the Gran Sasso and is a base for mountain climbing and skiing. There are also several museaums and national parks in Abruzzo.

The first known inhabitants of Abruzzo were the Picenians. Other tribes included the Equians, Vestinians, Praetutians and Marsians. The region was crushed by Roman military might in 90 BCE. Among several famous natives of Abruzzo is the poet Ovid who was born there in 43 BCE.

I will provide more information about Abruzzo when I discuss the Trebbiano D’Abruzzo, and possibly when I discuss a Molise wine as well.