Vino by Gino

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

2003 MOLISSIMO


Introduction

In one of my first posts I mentioned that I planned to write about a wine from Molise, Italy if I could find one. I have written about Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which I like very much. My family is from Molise so I am naturally drawn to wine (as well as other products and traditions) from that area. Molise was once part of Abruzzo and many of my relatives who came to the U.S. before the split have always referred to themselves as “Abruzzese.”

Anyway, I did find this wine in a local wine store located in what for many years was a heavily Italian section of my town (called “The Crossing” since it is near the railroad tracks). I bought a bottle and gave it to my parents a few months ago and did not have a chance to write about it. Finally I remembered to go back to the store for another bottle so I am taking this opportunity to write about it. It cost $10.99 for a 750 ml bottle.

Wine Impressions

I was attracted to this wine by a large sign in the store advertising it. I found the bottle to be very attractive as the label includes a map of Molise from the 1600’s. The name “MOLISSIMO” is in bold gold letters on a maroon background at the top of the label.

The wine has the IGT designation, which means it is a recognized territory but a step below the DOCG and DOC classifications in the Italian rating system. I found it interesting that the designated region is “Terre Degli Osci” which means “land of the Oscans," a people who lived in Molise in ancient times.

The wine has a nice deep purple color with a light aroma. It has a pleasant taste that is not sweet and the tannins make their presence known. While I enjoyed it from the first taste, when I got to the third glass (and the third day!) I loved it. The fourth glass was also great (and probably supports the idea that Vacu-Vin is worth the effort). I will certainly buy more of this wine in the future.

This wine consists of 60% Montepulciano grapes and 40% Aglianico (which is one of the three noble grapes of Italy (along with Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. According to www.wine.appelationamerica.com, the Aglianico grapes were brought to Italy from Greece in the 7th Century B.C.E. Another interesting fact is that one of the leading places in the United States where this varietal is grown is Paso Robles on the California Central Coast!

The Company:

The name of the company that produces this wine is a mystery to me. The bottle says that it is imported by William Grant and Sons. I found a web site that explains that William Grant and Sons teamed with internationally renowned Italian winemaker Alberto Antonini to produce this wine.

The Region: Molise

Molise is located on the Adriatic side of Italy roughly northeast of Naples and southeast of Rome. It has two provinces with provincial capitals of Campobasso and Isernia. Both are beautiful cities. The entire population of Molise is about 300,000, according to Wikipedia. My family comes from a tiny village called Santa Maria del Molise, which is a bit closer to Isernia than Campobasso.

Growing olives and wine making are still important agricultural activities in Molise, and the city of Venafro is known for its olive oil industry. However, wheat, beans and potatoes are the most important crops. A cab driver in Rome once told me that Molise makes the best mozzarella cheese from buffalo milk, but I never verified that.

Molise was once part of the territory of the Samnites, who were the last grup to challenge the Romans before the start of the Empire. According to Wikipedia, Molise was invaded by the Goths in 535 C.E. after the fall of the Roman Empire.

Molise’s low population is due, in part to a vast exodus of people from this impovershed region from the mid to late 19th century until about the 1970’s. Residents emigrated abroad and to the industrial cities of Italy.

I visited Santa Maria in 1975 and again in 2000. I like to compare my visits to the "Back to the Future“ movies. In 1975, Santa Maria appeared isolated and stuck in an earlier era (like the “western“ Hill Valley of Back to the Future III). By 2000, it was thoroughly modern and you could almost believe you were in California (if not the Hill Valley of 2015!).